I Heart Oaxacan Almendrado (Almond Mole)

I took a cooking class in Oaxaca with Oscar Carrizosa from Casa Crespo. I followed Oscar to the nearby Sánchez Pascuas local market to buy squash blossoms (zucchini flowers), passion fruit, cactus pear, and corn fungus. Oaxaca is famous for its seven moles (sauces) ranging from the incredibly rich mole negro which contains chocolate, spices and fruits to the delightfully delicate and easy to make almond mole.

Here's the recipe:

1 tablespoon oil
¼ medium onion
2 garlic cloves
¾ cup (3.5 oz/100 g) whole almonds, peeled
1 large slice (1½ in/4 cm) Challah-type bread
8 (2 lb/1 kg) cooked tomatoes, seeded and peeled
1 teaspoon thyme
1 in (2.5 cm) slivered cinnamon stick
2 peppercorns
1 clove
2 cups chicken broth
1 tablespoon lard or olive oil
Salt
3 almonds, peeled, toasted and sliced
18 green olives
1/3 cup (60 g/2 oz) pickled jalapeño or serrano chilies, sliced

Heat the oil in a frying pan over high heat. Fry the onion. Once it turns transparent, add the garlic cloves, ¾ cup of almonds, slice of bread and the tomatoes. Cook for about 3 minutes over low heat. Remove from heat and cool. Blend all these ingredients in a blender with the thyme, cinnamon, peppercorns, clove and 2 cups of chicken broth (I find that vegetable broth works just as well for vegetarians).

Heat the lard (or olive oil) in a saucepan with a lid, then fry the blended ingredients. Stir constantly to avoid sticking. Cover and cook for 15 minutes over low heat. Season with salt. Add chicken pieces (or fish -- we used yellowtail).

Garnish the dish with the sliced almonds, olives and pickled jalapeño or serrano chilies.

And here are the details for the cooking course:

Casa Crespo
Crespo 415
Centro
Oaxaca
Mexico

Phone:
From México 01 (951) 514 1102
(Phone reservations between 9 am and 5 pm)
Email: casacrespo@go-oaxaca.com

See Ya Eggs Benedict

Sunday brunch, 1pm, Oaxaca food market. I push my way through the smokey hallway. A woman brandishes her tray in front of me. It is laden with raddishes, avocado, grilled spring onions, jalapeno chillis. I take one small dish of each. I take a seat in a jam-packed booth. Locals are sipping Oaxacan hot chocolate with its distinctive almond-cinammon flavor or tucking into the typical Oaxacan brunch that I'm about to sample: thin slices of beef with large tortillas garnished with raddishes, spring onions, chilli and avocado. Delicious and, at a couple of dollars apiece, one of the most affordable meals in town.

Photos: Paul Nathan

Fear Factor for Foodies

Outside the market in near Oaxaca's zocalo (town square) are soft heaps of succulent grasshoppers which the locals refer to as a "superfood." While I have no doubt that grasshopper's are nutritious, I had a hard time bringing hand to mouth when said hand was filled with little insects. I was much happier at Casa Oaxaca (García Vigil 407, Centro Oaxaca) where the chef has crushed the pests into a pesto.

Photo: Paul Nathan

String's the Thing

Oaxaca is famous for its glorious string cheese which is firm and milky, a little like Bocconcini. Find it in the market and purchase by the plaited pound. Or, for those in New York, the Whole Food Deli on the Upper West Side has it.

Squash Blossom Heaven

Oaxaca's vegetable markets are literally blooming with beautiful orange squash blossom. But unlike the Italians who tend to crumb, stuff and fry the flowers, the Mexicans prefer them a little fresher. I had them in a frittata crowned with freshly diced tomatoes, wrapped into a tortilla with Oaxacan string cheese and chopped into a soup.